Travel Monkeys » Paris

I See Dead People!

Becky — Tue, 30 Nov 1999 07:00:00 +0000

We had to see the Catacombs, I mean come on, 6 million dead Parisian skeletons underground arranged artistically, who wouldnâ€™t want to see that? These caverns used to be mining areas back in the olden days, but in the 19^th century, the cemeteries were apparently overflowing, literally, so over several years they carted these bones down underground at night (so not to freak out the citizens that were living there at the time). They then made them neat towards the front by arranging designs with the long bones and skulls, and then opened the area up like in an amusement park. It was weird and kinda spooky. Initially, I found myself just walking along trying to find different bones or commenting on the artistic use of a femur here instead of a humerus. It was like it wasnâ€™t real. They go on for miles. But then it hit me, especially when I started seeing the bones of toddlers or babies. I mean these were living people, just like you or me. Very surreal. I even felt a bit sacrilegious taking pictures. I definitely want to be cremated when I die and have my ashes spread somewhere, just so someone in the future doesnâ€™t see me somewhere in some cavern.

Wet Clothes & A Bike

Becky — Thu, 07 Sep 2006 07:00:00 +0000

We were starting to smell, so we attempted to do Laundry at this Laundromat near our hotel. It was all in French but thank God that there is universality with washing machine symbols. In the end it must have all worked well cause they smelled much better, were still the right color and no shrinkage, despite that to my motherâ€™s horror I did not sort out by color and just crammed them all in the same washer. Do you know how expensive it is to do a load of laundry?

Did Fat Tire Bike tour/Boat Ride around Paris tonight. Was amazing to see the city all lit up. It looked completely different than the day. No serious injuries, but two near death experiences. One involved French drivers and the fact that like in the states the pedestrian crossway just means speed up. And the second involved me being graceful and falling over into traffic by Notre Dame cathedral after getting my shoe caught in the bike. The car that was speeding towards me swerved and I did not get run over, but I was shakey for a bit. My guardian angel was on overdrive today.

I am drunk on art. – Paris

Chris — Wed, 06 Sep 2006 17:14:21 +0000

We came. We saw. We kicked Monaâ€™s arse. We had a 4 day museum pass and with a little modification it turned into a 5 day museum pass. We did so many museums it was a blur. Seeing literally 1000′s of pieces of art. After five days of museums it feels like a hang over of high art intoxication. I like that phrase high art intoxication or being drunk on art. Maybe I do have some writing skills. Naaaaa.

Below are pieces of art that I liked from the coolest museums in Paris. The Musee d’Orsay or Orsay Museum has mostly Impressionism works. Its soothing on the eye pallet and less hectic than the Louvre. A must see in my humble option.

The Impressionists

Becky — Wed, 06 Sep 2006 07:00:00 +0000

Ok so I knew it was wrong. But Chris said it would be ok since I was injured yesterday. And I knew that is not an excuse, but we still used our 4 day museum pass for a 5^th day and went to the Orsay museum to see the Impressionists. Please donâ€™t tell God or the French government I lied.

Orsay was a very pretty museum, not just because of the artwork that it held, but also because of the location. It used to be a train station. We saw Manets, Monets, Van Goghs, Rembrandts, etc. My favorite Monets were here like the waterlillies and the painting of that bridge at giverny. Also saw VanGogh and the room he painted at Arles, France. (I think that is where he went crazy and cut off his own ear). You gotta love that. It was fabulous. I wish we had more time here but basically we just ended up running around with the camera and taking pics and video. I am sure it looks silly on film, probably also looked silly in person.

Rodin, The Sewers & Le Tour Eiffel – What a Weird Day

Becky — Tue, 30 Nov 1999 07:00:00 +0000

So, itâ€™s museum pass day number 4 and Chris realizes (finally) that we are nowhere close to finishing all the stuff to do in Paris. So today we tried to do too much. On the schedule was Rodin museum, sewer tours, Arc de Triomphe and Louvre part two. HAH!!! I say looking back. I was psycho for thinking that my boyfriend and me, who donâ€™t wake up before noon, could get all that done. But we tried!

Rodin was great. That man could sculpt. He sculpted so much that it filled up the whole house and then some. The gardens were so nice (of course I got yelled at when I sat on the grass â€“ I mean who knew you could not sit on the grass â€“ geez, these French people and their perfect gardens). Saw the THINKER, and the GATES of HELL and lots of others. It was one of my favorite museums. Chris of course had to go up to the gates of hell and â€œKnockâ€. Lol. Oh the silly things we end up doing just to make ourselves laugh.

Sewer tour was educational but VERY STINKY. I learned that I never want to work in a sewer. I also learned that those people who do should be either sainted by the Pope or knighted by the Queen.

Le Tour Eiffel, was enchanting. Had a picnic dinner under it (in an area where you could sit on the grass). Had thought about going to the top, but too expensive and we had already had a view of the city from Notre Dame.

Omitted today was Louvre 2 and Arc de Triomphe due to the fact that on the way to Rodin I fell and twisted my knee, Why am I a klutz? Anyway, more stairs were a no go. Wishing I had ice or an ace wrap.

Mona and Me – sept 1st

Chris — Mon, 04 Sep 2006 17:18:37 +0000

I shall talk just about the Mona Lisa for a bit and the past times I saw her. If you want the whole story of our time in Paris very free to read Beckyâ€™s descriptive blogs. I am a poor blogger and not a fan of writing but I shall attempt to do my best.

This was my third time seeing Mona Lisa, the first visit was two years ago in May of 2004 with my friend Jeremy. Jeremy and I (as always) were running late and arrived at the Louvre 30 minutes before closing. We literally had to run directly to the Mona Lisa just to see that famous swanky girl before they booted us out. It took about 10 minutes to get to her room and we were out of breath, not just because of the walking distance and all the steps, but more from trying to absorb all of the magnificent art we ran by. Saying things constantly like “holy $h!% there is the blah blah” or ” Isn’t that one famous?â€ many times over. It was power art at its finest. In 2004 Dan Brown and the DaVinci Code were just starting to become popular so the Mona Lisa was still hanging on an average looking wall with other paintings nearby. I remember it being dingy too. There was only one lame roped pole guard thing to help the tourists get lined up (or queue up – as the Brit’s say). Plus, you could take flash pictures since the Mona was behind a flash protective non-reflective glass. I remembered that several fellow tourists and backpackers telling us how small the Mona Lisa paintings was that by the time that I saw her she was frickâ€™n HUGE (please apply Scottish accent). I expected her to be the size of a postage stamp. Best part there were no lines or people to fight through.

That first visit to the Louvre tops as one of my exhilarating Paris moments. The rush of the first time! Running against the clock. That breathless excitement in witnessing mad dash glimpses of Master works. Realizing that seeing art can be emotional. Ending with the climax of the Mona Lisa with all her hype she was one OK girl.

On my second visit to see Mona, in May of 2005, I was solo. I had much more time at the Louvre compared to my 30 minute art orgasm the year before. Take all the art in a slow meandering pace. I thought that would be a good way, only to realize there are 30,000 plus pieces of art. Ugh. Art overload cometh. This time there were crowds of people all getting in my way it seemed. Stupid people. I was spoiled from the handfuls I saw from afar on my first trip at the closing hour. While the art was still amazing it was not like the giddy excitement of the first time. I was not a “virgin” any more I suppose.

Mona has been whoring herself of late due to the mega popular DaVinci Code. The lass needed some airing and decent traffic control. They moved her to very own hall in a big new fancy room. A massively huge wall of gigantic proportions with monolithic tall ceilings. Mona was pimpâ€™n. She was displayed in a Queenly style. Plus, there were ropes and guard poles to help guide the tourist traffic for maximum viewing. This was the final year you could take flash photography of her.

In my third visit with Becky (September 2006) was same as 2005 but you could no longer could take photos with or with a flash, Not only of Mona but in the whole wing. It was sad moment! As a consolation prize smallish signs stated you can go to the Louveâ€™s website and download all 35,000 paintings for free. Bah! I say. The whole point of seeing Mona is taking a picture with her. Ya know, Mona and me. The two of us together. Itâ€™s to prove that you were there. I mean she is behind non-reflective glass so the moron tourists who forget to turn off the flash will not damage her. For those that donâ€™t know using your flash on your camera does destroy or fade artwork, especially when you multiply that by tens of thousands of tourists each year. That wicked sneaky ninja like smile of hers would certainly fade as if it was left out in the sun but I digress… Well, that is my gripe about not being able to take photos of Mona. You can try to sneak a quick photo sans flash and I did see a few people doing it. Still itâ€™s hard to frame yourself just right to sneak a good photo. Ahh well, the progress of art protection.

As for how it felt to see Mona the third time it wasnâ€™t a big deal anymore. I really didnâ€™t look at her much and just enjoyed watching how Becky reacted. It was even a wee bit borings to see all the same big works again, but this time I was in a new role as a guide for Becky’s first time. I am not sure if that makes me a bad art connoisseur or artist for not being somehow amazed or in awe again. Now in hindsight with the writing of this blog, one way to overcome those art blues is to read up on a few choice pieces. That way you have context and/or a connection to the artwork to make it more significant and memorable. Another point is only to select a few works. Sometimes an audio tour can do this but I feel a book is better since its visual. One great book that does this well that I discovered is called “Mona Winks” by Rick Steves. It picks a few famous and important artworks throughout several museums in Europe and talks about them in a fun and interesting manner. It is a must have. Remember, its madness to try to take the Louvre with its 30 plus thousand artworks â€œall inâ€.

My Time With Mona & Venus

Becky — Tue, 30 Nov 1999 07:00:00 +0000

Today we decided to do two museums, but I wanted to make them as different as possible so they did not blur together. So the Louvre (you know whatâ€™s there) & the Pompidou (modern art) won.

Louvre first. I thought it would only take two hours, well at least only one of the three wings would take two hours. Now why did I think that? Well, because one of my â€œtraveling Europeâ€ idols, Rick Steves, told me so in one of his books. I was so naÃ¯ve. I have since realized that either Rick Steves is a LIAR, OR, more likely, he just runs about barely glancing at the artwork. Other options include him using motorized carts or skates in the Louvre, or a special Rick Stevesâ€™ pass and only goes when no one else is there, or maybe this is just a classic tale of being able to stop time.

So what took Rick Steves 2 hours, took us 4 (and thatâ€™s running and barely seeing all of it.) But what did I see? Lots, but the two most important things were the F***ing Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. I have wanted to see them forever. Mona was all in her own room kinda snooty like and surrounding by guards and bullet proof glass like she was the Queen of England, but Venus, well she was like you or I just hanging out like she was ready to share some coffee and have a chat (of course she is half naked with no arms â€“ perhaps the coffee would not be in public). She was definitely more down to earth than that bitch Mona. I mean come on, Mona would not even pose for photographs. Venus was an exhibitionist from all angles.

So once we exhausted ourselves at the Louvre, then came the Pompidou and some freak ass modern art. I have no words for a lot of this stuff. My favorite involved entering this room that was closed with hanging plastic draperies but from below was emitting this eerie pink glow. Once inside this huge room there were four things, a huge red stiletto shoe , pink flashing lights on the floor, silk curtains backlit by pink lights, and as if there wasnâ€™t enough, there was classical opera music playing. OMG that it too unbelievable. Really questions the â€œWhat is art?â€ doesnâ€™t it?

Off With Their Heads – Versailles, France

Becky — Sun, 03 Sep 2006 07:00:00 +0000

The Versailles palace and grounds were wonderful. The opulence of that palace oozed from every available space, even the ceilings. Gods and Goddesses were painted everywhere. You were a nobody unless someone had carved your likeness into a block of marble. The mirrors, the paintings, the tapestries. And all that is just on the inside of this building.

The gardens were sooo fancy that they charged more for them (not on the museum pass) so us commoners just had to peek at them from the second story windows and sidewalks.

Oh to be Marie Antoinette frolicking about Versailles and the surrounding houses in the 18^th century with King Louis the XVI. How romantic. Of course I would only want to be her up until they lopped off her head with the â€œnational razorâ€ during the revolution. Beheadings are NEVER romantic.

Let the Museum Pass Begin!

Becky — Tue, 30 Nov 1999 07:00:00 +0000

We bought the 4 day museum pass in Paris. There were 2 and 6 day available, but Chris thought we could get it all done in 4 and save more money. I donâ€™t think that he listened to the litany of things that I wanted to do, but I decided to let this one go and attempt the 4 day pass. Our first stop was the Cluny Museum of the Middle Ages with the Hughesâ€™. It was quite kick ass and I enjoyed all the history (tapestries, armor, stained glass, religious alters, etc.). It always amazes me what they accomplished in the Dark/Middle Ages, especially with the poor sanitation and limited knowledge. The world seemed to revolve around religion and as long as you were alright with God and his brimstone, maybe you could make it, of course you still had to dodge the biggies like the Plague and Typhoid.

After Cluny, parted with the Hughes, moved to another hostel (cheaper at 31 euro a night & way scarier), and then plotted my attack on the city and what was covered by the museum pass. So in the afternoon went to of course you guessed it Notre Dame Cathedral. OMG, it was amazing (and that was just the outside). Climbed to the top- 400 steps up in a narrow circular vertigo inducing staircase and finally made it up to the area of the gargoyles. Way cool! Oh and the view! Climbed higher and saw the bell tower (no Quasimodo or Esmerelda in sight though). After our fill of that took the 400 step staircase down. Once the outside was conquered, did the inside and the rose windows took my breath away. I canâ€™t describe finally seeing something in person that you have seen in pictures and movies your whole life. We lit candles and just communed with this amazing church that has stood for like 700 years.

The Search for Mama & Papa Hughes

Becky — Sat, 02 Sep 2006 03:00:00 +0000

Ok so we changed our plans around Chrisâ€™s parents. We were going to go to England from Spain and then work our way south. The original goal was to hit north and then get out as fast as possible before it got too cold. But, you only live once right , and the odds of Chris seeing his parents in Paris ever again were slim, so this seemed like a good idea. Good idea until you throw insomnia and a night train to Paris on board. Good idea until you realize that after sitting in the train station and a McDonalds for 5 hours that their flight was not arriving today at noon, but arrived YESTERDAY at noon and that there was no way to find them currently as they were probably engrossed at the Louvre all day. AARRGGHHH!!!!!!!! Ok so change of plans, no free floor space at their hotel, drag our crap all over town to find our own hostel and then go back to their hotel like a total of 5 times to leave notes before finally reaching them by email (which they thankfully checked at the Louvre). Poor things, I bet they wondered where we were yesterday. And I thought that two different languages created a language barrier. Sometimes, even English can.